What began as a business trip to InterTabac turned into an unforgettable 700+ mile loop through Germany, Switzerland, and France
The 2024 InterTabac Trade Fair drew 800 exhibitors and 14,500 attendees from 70 countries to Dortmund, Germany. The annual event, in its 45th year, is the world’s largest such event for tobacco products.
From the 19th of September to the 21st, my sister Jamilet, our technical guru Gianni, and I crisscrossed the Westfallenhalle’s more than 500,000 square feet of exhibits to bring coverage of this “for trade-only” show to our social media followers. By the time it was done, we were ready for a vacation. What follows was not meant to be published as a travel story. But that vacation turned out to be such a perfect trip for cigar smokers that we decided to share it.
Before we dive in, some explanation of fundamental constraints and decisions is required. To attend InterTabac, we flew nonstop from Miami International to Frankfurt Airport. From there we drove to Dortmund and returned to Frankfurt after the event, making the city our entry and exit point. It was also where our spouses met us to start our vacation. We chose to drive rather than travel by train because it allowed us the freedom to do things on our own timeline and adjust the itinerary without the stress of train arrangements. Also, I enjoy driving in Europe. When planning the itinerary, I chose destinations with every member of our party in mind. One wanted to take pictures of old castles and half-timbered houses, others wanted to visit wine regions and quaint small towns, and I wanted to meet up with an old friend in a Swiss alpine village and smoke a cigar with a breathtaking view.
We accomplished all of it and so much more.
A quick note on cigars during the trip. Smoking cigars is widely accepted throughout this part of Europe. This doesn’t mean you can always smoke indoors but most bars and restaurants’ outdoor terraces allow smoking, and while we walked through every city, town, and village with a cigar in hand, we never got as much as a dirty look or annoying fake cough.
Germany/Frankfurt
The city on the Mainz River is Germany’s financial capital and home to the European Central Bank, earning it the nickname “Mainhattan.” Don’t be fooled by Frankfurt’s skyline and Wall Street vibes, this is still an old city with loads of history. Today, Frankfurt is where the Euro currency is managed, but during the Holy Roman Empire, kings and emperors were crowned in this city.
Frankfurt’s paradoxical history makes it intriguing. During World War II, much of the city was leveled by Allied bombings. One of the city’s most significant areas, Römerberg, was rebuilt and restored after the war. Römerberg has a long legacy that includes hosting holy coronations. The square hit a low point in 1933 when it was the site of the Nazi book burning, and rose again to become one of the most visited Christmas Markets in all of Europe. You can cynically look at Römerberg as a “fake” old town because while the buildings look old, they are fairly recently built, but I choose to see it as an inspiring example of cultural resilience. The city’s commitment to preserving its heritage, good and bad, then learning and improving from it, should be praised.
Don’t expect to be wowed when dining near Römerberg. It’s a high-traffic tourist area but one place that stood out among a sea of touristy gastronomic mediocrity was Alten Limpburg, located right on the square. We tried the apfelwein (apple wine) because it is a cultural staple of the city but let’s not kid ourselves, beer is king in this part of the world and for good reason; it’s excellent. We ordered sausages and the massive brezel (German for pretzel) and enjoyed the view of the iconic half-timbered houses on the square.
Afterwards, we fired up a cigar and walked a few steps away from the square to The Holy Cross Brewing Society. The coffee is superb, full stop. It was easily the best we had on the trip, and I’d be selling it short if I didn’t say that I’ve had dreams with this coffee since returning. True story.
For nightlife and entertainment, the city’s Train Station District, Bahnhofsviertel, is the city’s most diverse and vibrant area. Traditionally known as the red-light district, recent efforts to clean things up have helped, although there are sections of the area that are still sketchy. On the cleaner side, there’s a hidden gem called Mercedes Reyes Cigar Bar & Cigar Factory. The Mercedes is ensconced on the second floor of what looks like an office building and offers a full bar. The lounge has the feel of a tropical island home’s living room, complete with family pictures and mementos from the Dominican Republic and Cuba. No TVs means this place is strictly for conversation and the enjoyment of its house blends made on site. Shout out to Gianni for finding it.
Germany/Heidelberg
About an hour south of Frankfurt lies the historic and highly walkable city of Heidelberg. The ruins of Heidelberg Castle, one of the most important Renaissance structures in Europe, overlook the city and the surrounding areas. Unlike Frankfurt, which was hit hard during World War II, Heidelberg’s troubles came in the 17th century when it was caught in the crossfire of the Thirty Years’ War and 40 years later, the Nine Years’ War. The castle took the brunt of the damage and despite restoration attempts in the years following the conflicts, it was never fully rebuilt.
In 1751, however, locals rebuilt the Heidelberg Tun, a 58,000-gallon wine barrel located in the cellar of the castle, one of the largest wine barrels in the world. The impressive vessel was used to store wine during the time of the Holy Roman Empire when winegrowers paid part of their dues to the Palatinate in wine. The fact that a barrel so massive was engineered and built for this purpose speaks to the importance of wine to the region. Above the barrel is a small platform that at one time hosted courtly celebrations and dances. Visitors can climb the stairs to enjoy the view from above.
After leaving the castle, we made our way to the Alstadt (old town) where you can enjoy a cigar while walking the cobblestone streets and admiring the medieval architecture and charming shops. There’s a great energy to the town thanks to the mix of town elders, young families, university students, and a relatively low number of tourists.
Heidelberg University’s Alstadt Campus is the country’s oldest, having been established in 1386. Its reputation for academic excellence and research innovation make it one of Europe’s most prestigious. Don’t miss visiting the university’s museum and student prison. Yes, you read that correctly. Apparently, Eagles fans are not the only ones who’ve had a prison built specifically for them. That’s a joke, Philadelphians.
A five-minute walk from the Studentenkarzer (student prison) is the spot to check out for a bite and more, Weinstube Schnitzelbank. This weinstube, which means wine tavern, is located inside what used to be a cooperage and still preserves that old-world workshop feel. According to its history, around 1900, the owners of the cooperage came to the realization that it was more profitable to sell wine than wine barrels. The history and feel of the place wouldn’t mean much if the food and wine don’t hold up their end of the bargain but they do. The curated selection of local wine is excellent and the garlic-schnitzel, which they nicknamed “lonely nights,” was one of the best schnitzels we’ve ever had.
PRO TIP: To make sure it’s not a “lonely night,” convince your date to order the same thing.
Germany/Villingen-Schwenningen
As we made the trek southward towards Switzerland, bad weather forced us to skip our planned visit to Hohenzollern Castle. And it was still pouring when we pulled into Villingen-Schwenningen, our stopover for the night. We were stuck inside the hotel all night but thankfully we had chosen the Sombea Hotel for its solid restaurant, bar, and killer little cigar lounge.
We weren’t the only ones who had chosen wisely that evening. We spent most of our time in the cigar lounge and covered smoking terrace chatting with luxury car technicians from all over Europe who were in Villingen-Schwenningen for a training course. Cigar smokers are the same everywhere in the world; once you have the enjoyment of cigars in common, it’s only a matter of time before you become lifelong friends.
Switzerland/Mount Pilatus
The bad weather followed us into Switzerland, and we arrived at the base of Mount Pilatus near Lake Lucerne under auspicious skies. Not sure if we’d even be allowed up, we soldiered on and purchased the Silver Round Trip tickets from Alpnachstad to the summit station on the world’s steepest cogwheel train. While we waited for the next train, we sheltered from the weather at the little café near the station and the group’s spirits were less than chipper. We drowned our bad weather fortunes in Eichof Lager, local beer, and pretzels.
The beer and pretzels did the trick. We emerged from the café in a good mood and found that the weather had started to break. Soon we embarked on a 30-minute train ride to the summit along the impressively steep 48% grade covering almost three miles and serving up views that make it hard to stop taking pics. At this point in the journey, it’s hard to imagine how much better the views will be when you reach the top. In other words, don’t fret if you miss a shot here, they don’t compare to what you’ll see at the summit.
ALTERNATIVE PLAN: Because of time constraints and bad weather, we opted to start our Mount Pilatus adventure at Alpnachstad, taking the Silver Round Trip. However, under different circumstances, we would have taken the Golden Round Trip, which starts with a boat cruise across Lake Lucerne, then Alpnachstad, etc.
At the summit station area, Pilatus Kulm, you have options for activities and dining. We opted to get outside to take in the views immediately. There would be time for souvenirs and refreshments later. With more time at our disposal, we would have opted to stay overnight at the Hotel Pilatus-Kulm, a historic, 30-room hotel built in 1890. To have the opportunity to wake up to that view is something I won’t pass up again.
It was time to explore Pilatus’ summit, and we eased our way into it by starting with the Dragon Path. This short, easy trail combines Pilatus’ dragon mythology with stunning views of the Swiss Alps, Lake Lucerne, and the surrounding valleys. At the trail’s end, you can turn back towards the station or continue up the stairs and paths that take you ever higher into the clouds. We didn’t come here to turn back.
As we carried on, we could see the surreal Klimsenkapelle about 600 feet below us – a lonely, small chapel, built on the edge of a ridge at 6,253 feet of elevation. While it no longer holds regular mass, it serves as a place for spiritual retreat and worship for hikers and pilgrims.
Continuing up the Dragon Path, we found a spot with a bench to relax and breathe in the cool, clean, mountain air away from the crowded areas. As we sat taking it all in, we were engulfed by clouds moving across the peak. There is no picture, video, or written language that can encapsulate this moment. You must experience it.
We finished the Dragon Path and continued to Esel Peak, a shorter but steeper path that is Pilatus Kulm’s highest accessible point at 6,949 feet. It offers 360-degree panoramic views from its observation platform.
There are a variety of other outdoor activities on Mount Pilatus, like a toboggan ride, zip-lines, and hikes of varying degrees of difficulty, including one to Klimsenkapelle.
Switzerland/Wengen
After returning to the parking lot at Alpnachstad, we hit the road towards Wengen in a bit of a rush. We had reservations at the Hotel Jungfraublick Wengen that evening but getting there isn’t as straightforward as it may seem, nor is the drive through Brünig Pass to get there. It could be the windiest road I have ever driven, and I loved every minute of it in the rented, stick shift Peugeot 5008 GT.
The alpine village of Wengen is a car-free village, therefore we needed to drive to Lauterbrunnen, park the Peugeot at the train station, and take a train up to Wengen. We had a dinner reservation at the hotel’s restaurant, The Deck. The park and train thing is nothing to be worried about. It isn’t terribly complicated, the train runs every 30 minutes, with a brief 12-minute ride to Wengen.
The village makes an exception for the small cars the hotels use to transport your luggage from the train station to the hotel. We arrived, called the hotel, and minutes later we were checked in and enjoying a much-needed warm meal and glass of wine. We heard about a bar in the town that allows smoking on its patio, but this was the one night of the week that it wasn’t open. So, we ordered a second bottle of wine from the restaurant and enjoyed cigars on the balcony until the temperature dropped to the point that it stopped being fun. We are, after all, from Miami.
In the morning we explored Wengen while we waited for an old friend to meet up with us to go for a hike. My friend Thierry and his family live in Lausanne, and he and I worked together more than 20 years ago. While we’d kept in touch over the years, we hadn’t seen each other in person since we parted in 2004. He hopped off the train and, to our surprise, he’d brought his Jack Russell terrier Tati along for the hike. Our friendship seamlessly picked up where it left off – the same quick-witted humor, our own lexicon of goofy phrases still worked, and Tati the Jack Russell was a riot to be around.
We decided on the Männlichen to Kleine Scheidegg Panorama Trail for its low difficulty, and its sweeping views of the Eiger, Mönch, and Jungfrau peaks. We packed sandwiches, beer, and stogies, and took the gondola up to Männlichen. But rather than ride the gondola like normal people, we paid an extra five Swiss Francs per person and took the “Royal Ride;” this means you get to ride on the roof of the gondola. If you’re wondering about Tati the Jack Russell, she wasn’t allowed on the roof, so my wife Barbara happily took one for the team and rode inside the gondola with Tati. The “Royal Ride” is a must, although it is a little nerve-wracking every time the gondola approaches the sheaves.
The hike to Kleine Scheidegg is breathtaking. My sister’s husband, Ramon, an amateur photographer, took most of the photos in this story and the shots he took during the hike were some of his most striking. But despite his best efforts, there is no way to capture the beauty of this place through a lens. I think it’s because the sensation is more than visual, there’s an energy and a feeling of awe that can’t be captured.
At the midway point of the trail is the Rotstöckli Viewpoint, where there is a long bench that looks out at the peaks to one side and the valley town of Grindelwald in the distance. This was the one thing I wanted to do on this journey. We took a seat, enjoyed our provisions, and Facetimed our family back home. And when all of that was finished, I lit a cigar and just sat there enjoying the moment a little longer.
NOTE: I shouldn’t have to do this, but I feel it is a duty. Whenever we smoke cigars in nature, we must be extra cognizant of what we do with it. Never throw a lit cigar out into nature, period. Hang on to it until you are 100% certain that it has gone out or pour water on it to be sure it is out. Take the label off before you toss it; while the tobacco from the cigar will decompose rapidly, the paper from the label will not. And lastly, put any packaging like cellophane or tubes in your pocket until you get to a spot with a trash bin. We can’t complain about non-smoking policies if we are creating unnecessary waste or, at worst, causing a fire.
We completed the hike at the picturesque mountain pass of Kleine Scheidegg, elevation 6,762 feet. There are several dining options, a bar, and a hotel, Hotel Bellevue des Alpes, which appeared in Clint Eastwood’s Eiger Sanction. At the shops attached to the hotel, we found a small humidor loaded with Villiger products. Although we did not need them, I purchased two Villiger La Meridiana torpedos for 15 Swiss Francs each.
ALTERNATIVE PLAN: Kleine Scheidegg is the starting point for the Jungfrau Railway, which ascends to Jungfraujoch – Top of Europe. At 11,332 feet, it is the highest railway station in Europe. From Jungfraujoch, you can visit attractions like the Ice Palace and Sphinx Observatory, and access the Aletsch Glacier, the largest in the Alps.
We returned to Wengen and as we walked down Dorfstrasse, the town’s main thoroughfare, we saw a sign for a bar named On the Rocks, beckoning us. As we approached the door, we could hear the unmistakable sound of American rock n’ roll and the din that emanates from a bar full of patrons having a good time. Luckily, there was a table in the back that fit our large party, and we plopped down. There was all manner of American memorabilia on the walls including pictures of Elvis, Bob Dylan, and Jimi Hendrix among others. I was pleasantly surprised to see Brooklyn Lager on draft – but the day called for a pint or three of Guinness. They were perfectly poured.
After dinner, we said goodbye to Thierry and Tati and we promised not to let another 20 years go by before we connected again.
Photo credit: Maennlichen Royal Ride by David Birri
The following morning after breakfast, we were checking out of the Hotel Jungfraublick when the front desk informed us that in a few minutes there would be a “cow parade.” As fall turns towards winter, the farmers whose cows spent the year grazing on the sweet mountain grass guide the herd down to the relative warmth and safety of the valley. They do this on foot through the Alpine villages, in a time-honored tradition they call “Alpabzug” or alpine descent. We could hear the trychels, the large, flat, ceremonial cow bells that the cows wear for this annual event. We hustled down to the corner in time to see the first of the cows making the turn onto Dorfstrasse led by a farmer and his family. The sight of the family’s young boys and girls helping to guide the massive bovines down the street was something to behold. It was a fitting and heartwarming end to our Wengen adventure. While the cows were heading down the hill, it was time for us to turn our journey northward.
Switzerland/Basel
After the return train into Lauterbrunnen, we headed north on the A6 motorway for a couple of hours until arriving in the city of Basel. We planned to only stop here for lunch and a quick exploration of the city, but it was hard to leave. There is much to see but first things first. The troops were hungry, and we found a great spot with a name we struggled to pronounce, Gifthüttli, with a Swiss comfort food menu we could all get into. Great selection of beers and every variation of cordon bleu you can think of with a side of traditional rösti, a Swiss version of hash browns that we couldn’t get enough of.
It was drizzling again but it wasn’t so bad that we couldn’t enjoy the city. We popped out of the restaurant, and a few paces on the Sattelgasse towards the marktplatz (central square) is the Davidoff of Geneva Since 1911 store. The shop has an excellent selection of Davidoff products and accessories as well as several non-Davidoff cigars. Like most European cigar stores in 2024, the selection of Cuban cigars has been whittled down to a handful of facings. We picked up a couple of Davidoff Nicaragua robustos, this magazine’s 2013 Cigar of the Year, and set off to explore.
Basel is the cultural capital of the country, boasting over 40 museums and a mesmerizing mix of architectural styles. The city’s location as a tri-border town between France, Germany, and Switzerland adds to its eclectic feel. Simply walking along the cobblestone streets makes you feel like you should return and spend more time going down the cultural rabbit hole.
Photo credit: Visit Alsace
France/Ribeauvillé
We didn’t drive far from Basel’s city center when we crossed the border into France on our way to Alsace, the eastern region of France that gracefully blends French and German influences into a singular expression of food, wine, and traditions. The region’s picturesque villages dot the landscape amidst nearly 40,000 acres of vineyards. White wine rules the roost in this area, including Riesling, Gewürztraminer, Pinot Gris, and Muscat. A meager 10% of the wine from the region is red, almost all of it pinot noir.
Nearing the town of Ribeauvillé, I steered onto a vineyard trail, perhaps illegally, between rows of bright green vines plump with grape clusters. I don’t know why I chose to turn into that trail but as we went deeper into it, looking for a spot where we could turn around and head back out of there, we spotted an American flag on top of a hill. Surprised and happy to see Old Glory proudly waving in the middle of the Alsatian countryside, I drove toward it. When we reached the flag, we learned it was a memorial for four highly decorated American soldiers from World War II: Lt. Col. Keith Lincoln Ware (Medal of Honor), Capt. Martin Joseph Higgins (Silver Star & French Croix de Guerre Vermeille), Capt. Wilbur F. Nutting (Silver Star), and Lt. Whiteley Eli Lamar (Medal of Honor). Do yourself a favor, look these men up and read their histories. Each one is more inspiring than the last. Then fire up a cigar in their honor.
Eventually we arrived at Cave de Ribeauvillé for a wine tasting. Their tastings are incredibly informative and generous. If you keep asking, they keep pouring. Take the ideas you have about white wine, specifically Riesling, and throw them out the window. We left there loaded up on bottles that we weren’t sure we could fit in our suitcases.
After all that wine, it was time to eat, but I didn’t want to settle for the first place we saw. Whenever possible, I try to avoid places that cater to tourists. I find that the food in those restaurants is like a dumbed-down version of the real cuisine. The group was starting to get hangry, I could see dissent growing in the ranks, but the waiting paid off when we found Au Passage de la Tour. A cozy little eatery with a country-house feel run by a father and son where the menus are handwritten and nobody, not even the owner/waiter, speaks English. Using a combination of Spanish mixed with occasional mispronounced French words and a lot of pointing and head nodding, we got through the ordering process. If you want places that aren’t tourist traps, then you must embrace the potential communication struggles. Everything we had that night was fantastic and I can’t wait to return to this little gem.
ALTERNATIVE PLAN: Aside from being in the heart of Alsatian wine country, the medieval town of Ribeauvillé is also home to three castles that are free to access. Rent a bike in town and ride up the trails to the castles. If you have to pick one, make it Chateau Saint Ulrich.
France/Colmar
The Alsatian towns are so charming that it seems a crime to pass them by. Not stopping in Riquewihr, often listed among the “most beautiful villages in France,” or Eguisheim, with its unique, circular layout, was a necessary but rueful omission, though. We were on a mission to get to Colmar, “Le Petite Venise” or Little Venice. It didn’t disappoint.
Most of the time on a trip like this, rain and bad weather have the potential of spoiling a day, but on this occasion, it did the opposite. A storm had just rolled through Colmar leaving the streets mostly deserted when we pulled into town. Stepping out of the car, it felt like we had walked into a fairy tale. The uniquely shaped half-timbered houses, bridges, and fountains all along cobblestone streets combined in a magical way. The fact that Colmar survived World War II largely unscathed preserved its medieval and Renaissance feel unlike many towns in Alsace.
As Americans, Colmar has another attraction. It was the birthplace of Frédéric Auguste Bartholdi – sculptor of the Statue of Liberty. Born in 1834, Bartholdi was immensely proud of his Alsatian heritage. His artistic fingerprints are all over the city in the form of sculptures and fountains along with a museum dedicated to his life and works. To ensure visitors are aware of Bartholdi’s international influence, a 40-foot-tall replica of the Statue of Liberty at Colmar’s northern entrance hammers the point home.
The following day we wandered the town just getting lost in the setting. Walking the streets on a crisp September morning with the shops slowly coming to life gives you the sense of being in a classic Disney animated movie. It’s no mystery that Colmar and other Alsatian towns were Disney’s inspiration for their adaptation of Beauty and the Beast. I am the farthest thing from a Disneyphile. I’ve never seen Beauty and the Beast, but I fell hard for this city and more importantly, this region.
Photo credit: Restaurant Gifthüttli Basel
PRO TIP: To enjoy Colmar to the fullest, don’t visit on the weekend. The crowds of tourists are borderline unbearable.
For cigar purchases in Colmar’s old town, you have Tabac Obrecht. It’s not a big selection but there’s enough there for you to find something enjoyable if your stocks are running low. Outside of that, it’s slim pickings in the old town. But the next stop on our way towards Frankfurt improved significantly in this category.
France/Strasbourg
The capital of the Alsace region, Strasbourg is also the seat of the European Parliament, Council of Europe, and European Court of Human Rights. It’s no wonder they have a stronger cigar scene.
Cigar in hand, we walked around the Grande Île, the city center that UNESCO designated a World Heritage Site in 1988.
We spotted a group of fellow cigar lovers taking advantage of the beautiful weather with a fine smoke and asked where they got their smokes.
Through broken English, one of them directed us to Tabac La Régence Cave à Cigares on Rue du 22 Novembre – a short walk from the square. The ground floor was mostly a newsstand with a selection of cigarettes and cigarillos but when I asked about cigares – I got pretty good at saying that one with a French accent -they led us down some stairs to a walk-in humidor in the basement. The humidor, like many in Europe, looked like it was reluctantly transitioning out of a heavy rotation of Cuban cigars, to more Dominican, Nicaraguan, and Honduran offerings.
For a humidor that is farther along in this transition, seek Le Comptoir du Cigare (The Cigar Counter), a few blocks south past the square dedicated to Strasbourg’s favorite adopted son, Johannes Gutenberg. This was one of the most well-appointed cigar stores we visited during our travels. The store is also located across from a couple of restaurants and bars with spacious outdoor seating areas. One of them is The Dubliners, an obviously Irish pub where you can order solid bar food as well as a great selection of Irish and Alsatian brews.
Strasbourg deserved much more time than we were able to give it. This is code for, ‘I plan to return to this amazing city at the crossroads of German, French, and Alsatian culture and traditions soon.’ For now, it was time to cross the border into Germany for our final night of the trip.
Photo credit: Oettinger Davidoff
NOTE: If you haven’t visited this part of Europe since 1985, when the Schengen Agreement was signed, you may not be aware that there are no longer any border controls between these countries. If it wasn’t for the changes in street sign language and the occasional, “Welcome to enter country name here!” sign, you would not even be aware that you’ve crossed.
Germany/Mainz
We pulled into Mainz on a Friday in the early evening when everyone was seemingly out and about. We’d needed to get there in time to set up for our weekly social media game of Win, Stuff, Live, which goes live on our Instagram, Facebook, YouTube, and X feeds every Friday at 3 PM Eastern. For us, that meant we had to go live at 9 PM local time. We checked in, dropped off our bags, and set out to find a good spot to go live from Mainz but we also needed to have dinner.
It was also the second week of Oktoberfest, so finding a table at a traditional German establishment was a challenge. We managed to score one at Brauhaus zur Sonne, around the corner from Wolsdorff Cigarren. The restaurant specializes in schweinhaxe, a roasted pork knuckle that looks just as much at home on a medieval table as it does in 2024. Brauhaus zur Sonne also serves schnitzels, sauerkraut, and burgers. Sadly, Wolsdorff Cigarren was closed but considering that it is one of the first Davidoff Appointed Merchants in Germany, I expect the selection to be excellent.
Now fully loaded up on pork and beer, we headed to the Gutenbergplatz to do the live show, which anyone can play for free. That day we gave away an awesome Davidoff Travel Humidor Explorer.
As for the square where we did the show, the Gutenbergplatz, it was the second square we visited dedicated to Johannes Gutenberg. As previously mentioned, he is Strasbourg’s adopted son but was in fact born in Mainz. And it was in Mainz that he perfected the printing press and produced the famous Gutenberg Bible around 1455.
This city was chosen for its proximity to Frankfurt, and it turned out to be a fun town. There was a healthy mix of families, young couples, and college students enjoying the city’s restaurants and bars late into the night. And there was no shortage of good cigar stores. In addition to the aforementioned Wolsdorff, which has two locations in the city, there is Tabak Galerie and TabaCasa, the latter of which is next to the Gutenberg Museum.
The End of the Journey
Our trip came full circle when we pulled into the airport rental car return in Frankfurt, and it hit me suddenly. Our jaunt through Germany, Switzerland, and France had come to an end.
Visiting these cities and villages with so much preserved history and experiencing their culture and traditions through food and drink has a way of giving you a fresh pair of eyes with which to look at the world.
Spending a day hiking an alpine trail with my family, a dear friend, and his charismatic little dog was icing on the kougelhopf.
